Gourmet Strawberries

January 7, 2010

Alpine Hardiness in Containers

Filed under: General Comments, Winter Mulching Strawberries — admin @ 11:52 am

I have grown alpines in containers for many years and prefer to grow them that way. They are very hardy. They were originally discovered high in the Swiss Alps. Plants that are well established in large pots need minimal protection. One option is to move them into an unheated shed. What I do is put a little fence around them making the enclosure at least 6″ larger than the pots and about 6″ taller. I then fill the space around the pots and on top of them with straw. Some people wrap their plants in bubble wrap or black roofing paper. I don’t advise that because both of those materials can cause heating and a freeze thaw cycle. All they need is some protection to moderate the temperatures and cut down the ups and downs.

January 6, 2010

Shipping in Winter

Filed under: General Comments, shipping in winter — admin @ 10:10 pm

We ship strawberry plants nearly year-round. Right now it’s cold outside. We have not been above freezing for a couple of weeks. Yes, I’m talking about the daytime high not being above freezing. It’s rough out here on the frozen tundra of Delaware.

Despite the cold, I have been shipping Quick Starts. I dig them out from under the straw that covers them and break them loose from their trays. Most times they have fine roots that have penetrated through the ground cover and these roots are broken off when I’m pulling the orders.

Many of the leave are still green though frozen solid. Some leaves are yellow or dead. I don’t clean off the yellow and dead leaves under these conditions. I have found that doing so can break off the whole stem. Instead, I wrap them in newspaper and send them off, most times still frozen.

They will likely thaw out on the way depending on where they are being shipped to. My advice to those receiving them is to allow the plants to gradually adjust to their new surroundings. I would suggest no warmer than the 40’s at first. If you’re lucky enough to live where it doesn’t get that low, then your lowest temperature or coolest area.

I think it’s best to just put the plants outdoors with protection. They were covered with straw here. If you have straw, put them outdoors in a spot where the straw won’t blow away or use fencing or something to keep the straw in place. Cover them with 3-5″ of loose straw. Use the courser straw, not fine straw which can smother them. In the absence of straw, do not use wood mulch. Use pine needles instead. I don’t recommend leaves as they will pack down and smother the plants.

If you feel that you need them inside for whatever reason, put them in the coolest area and gradually warm them up over a couple of weeks like you’re simulating spring. Isolate them from other houseplants and give them as much sun as possible. Keep them moist but not soaking wet and allow them to dry out a bit before watering them again.

If possible, transplant them a few days after they have thawed out and adjusted to their new environment. I like to put Quick Starts into 6 or 8″ pots with well drained soil. This would also be a good time to clean off the yellowing and dead leaves. Don’t pull them off, snip them off with a garden shears or scissors.

Good luck. Please let me know if you have other questions about receiving plants in the winter.

Indoor vs Outdoor Planting

Filed under: General Comments, Planting Strawberries — admin @ 9:52 pm

I frequently get questions about whether it’s best to plant strawberries indoors our outdoors. If you live in a hot climate then planting indoors is a strong possibility, especially if they will grow in a temperature controlled environment. Strawberries are cool season plants. They will survive in hot temperatures with proper care, but they are best grown cool. Cool here is defined as between 50 and 75F.

Here are some considerations for growing strawberries indoors:

  • Strawberries generally don’t pollinate well indoors. Outdoors there are breezes and insects that aid pollination. Indoors they can be hand pollinated. I have found that use of an oscillating fan on low helps. Another aid is to use a device that vibrates like an electric toothbrush. Touching the toothbrush to the flower stalk daily will help.
  • Before deciding to plant strawberries indoors consider where they came from. If they were grown outdoors and you are bringing them in, you likely will be bringing in insects. Some insects survive in the “nooks and crannies” of the plant like the leaf axils. In a sense, you are unleashing them indoors. It may take time for them to build up enough numbers to cause damage but the damage shows up sometimes quicker than one can react. Many times the populations are so large and there is so much damage that it can be nearly impossible to control.
  • Plants don’t dry out quickly indoors, especially in winter. Soil that is wet for long periods of time in cool conditions is a recipe for root diseases. Most strawberries are susceptible to root rots unless the breeder has selected for resistance. Some of the garden hybrids have some resistance. Alpine strawberries have no resistance since they are open pollinated varieties that have been selected through the years.
  • If you are not equipped to isolate plants from other plants already in the home, the newly introduced strawberries may become a new favorite food of the pests you already have indoors.

December 30, 2009

Rating Alpine Varieties

Filed under: Variety Characteristics, alpine strawberries — admin @ 7:13 pm

I have just completed this chart that compares various characteristics of alpine varieties. It is at:

http://varieties.thestrawberrystore.com/VarietyCharacteristics.pdf

Please add comments/questions.

December 17, 2009

Does Vermicompost Affect Germination?

Filed under: General Comments — admin @ 5:40 pm

I just wrote a manuscript based on a trial in the fall of 2009. I was running the annual germination trials - most states require that germination percentages are included on seed labels. I had read that vermicompost (worm castings) affect germination of seeds of various crops including tomatoes.

Each year seeds lose viability and germination decreases even when properly stored. I had old seeds of a particular variety. Last year the germination was 64%. 60% is the minimum standard. We suspected that their germination would be substandard and would have to be used for plant production.

The specific results will be published, but the answer to the original questions is that in this trial, yes, vermicompost increased germination of the seeds. The data were analized statistically and the effect was statistically significant. How about that?

Do I Need to Freeze the Seeds Before Sowing?

Filed under: Alpine Strawberry Seeds — admin @ 5:33 pm

This is a frequent question because there is a fair amount of information online that suggests this. Yes, it is true that freezing the seeds for 3-4 weeks can increase germination. Seed you buy here from The Strawberry Store is already preconditioned and is ready to be sowed.

If you buy seed elsewhere, ask them if they have preconditioned the seed. This is especially important if you’re buying the seed at the last minute. You don’t want to have to wait 3-4 weeks to sow them.

When Should I Start Seeding?

Filed under: Alpine Strawberry Seeds — admin @ 5:30 pm

The answer to this question is “it depends”. Vague enough for you?

Let’s start by saying that under ideal conditions alpine strawberries will produce their first fruit 4 months from seeding. I say ideal here to mean that:

  • the seeds are germinated in conditions that will give fairly quick germination rather than germination that drags out over a period of many weeks.
  • the plants are given adequate space to grow. Plants in tiny cells won’t live up to their true potential and may be held back if restricted.
  • the media/soil pH is in the desired range
  • the seeds/plants have adequate nutrition.

That being said, here we start seeding the first week of January for spring shipments of starter plants. To grow larger plants it is necessary to start earlier. We have chosen to seed in summer for plants that will be shipped in the fall and the following spring. The main reason for this is that germinating seeds in the winter is more expensive because bottom heat and lights are required.

A Great Link about Mulching Your Strawberries

Filed under: Winter Mulching Strawberries — admin @ 11:41 am

Cornell always has great information, especially about strawberries. Here is an article that I read today. Check it out. If you haven’t mulched yet, go out and get some straw and do it today.

http://www.fruit.cornell.edu/Berries/strawpdf/strwintermulch.pdf

Comments? Questions?

December 11, 2009

Cast Your Votes for Heirloom Strawberries

Filed under: heirloom strawberries — admin @ 10:43 pm

Do you have a favorite or have you heard of one that you absolutely have to have? From what I’ve heard I want (an obsessive want) ‘Tangi’. Anyone know where I can get even one plant?

What’s Your Favorite Gourmet Hybrid?

Filed under: Gourmet Hybrids — admin @ 10:41 pm

Mine is ‘Mara des Bois’. Here’s a photo that I took of a bowl of them. Don’t you want to just cut them up and start eating them?

Fragaria X ananassa 'Mara des Bois'

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