This is a large topic so it may have to be added in a couple of posts. I’ll get as far as I can today.
Let’s be clear right away. What I’m going to talk about here are non-runnering alpine strawberries. These plants are ever-bearing, but one more attribute about them, they are day-neutral. That means that they will bloom when conditions are favorable (correct temperature, moisture, nutrition, etc) irregardless of day length. They do not require a chilling period like the runnering alpine varieties.
First, let’s set aside some misconceptions. I’ve been growing and testing alpine strawberry varieties for over 20 years. There are some that believe that all red alpines are really the same variety. The varieties are actually selections that have been made through the years. They are not hybrids and are not gmo.They are open-pollinated varieties and produce true from seed although division can also be used to propagate them.
Still others believe that the yellows and whites are the same variety. I can tell you without a doubt in my mind that each variety is distinct. I have seen it in production trials. I have seen it in germination tests. Each variety that I carry is unique. Yes, they have similarities but they are NOT the same.
Second, let’s jump into productivity misconceptions. Many references online and even in print tend to say the same thing. They usually start out saying that alpines make good border plants and are cute little things that don’t produce enough fruit to warrant being in the garden. It is usually recommended by these authors that the plants are very cute along the sidewalk planted 6″ apart. They go on to paint the picture that you will be drawn to the plants by the aroma that they produce.
About the only part of this that’s true is about the aroma. It’s unmistakable once you’ve discovered where that strong aroma is coming from. You can then let your nose point you toward the alpine patch. Yes, they are partially correct in saying that they aren’t productive. They won’t produce much if they’re planted that close together. They’re kind of being set up for failure.
My thesis in entomology school was about the innate capacity of the green cloverworm, a very obscure “pest” of soybeans in the midwest. Enough about that. What I want to emphasize is the innate capacity part. What this basically means is that if you remove all the factors that negatively influence a characteristic - in this case productivity - then that’s the innate capacity.
For a number of years I’ve grown alpines in large containers including half barrels. It doesn’t take a plant long to fill a barrel. And, with the right conditions, nutrition, light, moisture, etc you’ll get a lot of fruit. I’m one of those people who has to quantify things. I finally decided about 4 years ago to take a look at the innate capacity for production of alpine strawberries. I laid out the following plan.
- I chose a single plant each of 8 varieties that were grown from seed at about the same date - within a couple of weeks of each other
- These plants were well over a year old when they were transplanted to a large raised bed that had been amended with mushroom soil
- The plants were planted 18 - 20 inches apart in the bed in a single row. The row faced the morning and mid day sun with no shaddows. In the mid afternoon the bed is shaded which is great for strawberries - they don’t like the heat!
- Bird netting was used over the row at all times. The netting was pulled back only when picking
- The trial actually started when the plants were about two years old. They were huge plants that measured 18 or more inches in diameter.
- For the spring only, fruit was picked every two days or so. If adverse weather was predicted the fruit was picked more often. The number of fruit picked was recorded per plant and the fruit was weighed in grams with a fairly accurate portable scale
- since I was looking at the potential for production, no effort was made to grade the fruit. every berry was included in the counts and the weights
The results of this trial have not been published so I’ll give some general information here. ‘Alexandria’ and ‘Yellow Wonder’ were the two top producing varieties. Statistically they produced the “same” amount of fruit. These two varieties produced nearly 450 berries each and the total weight of these berries was 0.9 lb. That’s a LOT of fruit. And, this was the spring season only. Studies setup on 2009 will follow multiple plants for each of 12 varieties for multiple seasons so we’ll try to get a handle on this.
So, don’t believe it if you read that alpines are cute little, unproductive plants. Further proof of this is that fruit is being imported into the U.S. almost daily from Europe. The Europeans don’t make a fuss about it and you don’t hear much about it unless you dine at a top French restaurant. These plants, yes, some of the same varieties that I have worked with all these years, are the same ones being grown overseas and shipped here. European growers wouldn’t be wasting their time picking from unproductive plants, would they?
The next planned post - why should I plant multiple varieties of alpines? See ya then …..
So glad I found your blog here — I am about to up-pot a bunch of ‘mignognette’ seedlings and am learning all sorts of awesome tidbits here. I’m limited to a balcony garden right now, so I tend to crowd plants in, but now I think I’ll give a few plants pride of place our there, let ‘em show their stuff. The others (about 50?!) I will try growing in a grow bag from Park Seed…that is, those that I don’t give away to lucky friends and family!
Being a thrifty (cheap) and experimental type, I would also love to save seeds from the ones I keep. I have noticed some wild strawberry-like plants out back behind our condo, so am wondering if they’ll cross-pollinate…and, if so, if keeping several under nets all season would prevent this…
I’ll stop monopolizing the comment section now — THANKS for the great info!
Comment by Kate — March 13, 2010 @ 1:48 pm
Why do you think planting alpine strawberries 6″ apart or closer reduces their growth and productivity? Does that mean they shouldn’t be planted several in a barrel?
Comment by Karl — April 4, 2010 @ 10:57 pm
Great question. American garden writers recommended this way back and now others are picking it up and repeating it. I have to wonder if they ever grew them themselves.
Most instances of this recommendation are that the plants are cute little ornamentals and that planting 6″ apart along a sidewalk is where they belong. Their supposed rationale is that one will smell the aroma that the berries produce and will be taken off to dreamland. They do produce a wonderful aroma. But, let’s think about this. In colder climates sidewalks are treated with salt for ice in the winter. Water from the sidewalk runs off. What are sidewalks made of? All this runs off into the soil. Not where I would put my most prized plants!!
If you plant multiple plants in a large pot the pot will be filled with plants very quickly. I use this technique to get the maximum production as quickly as possible from a given area. If one uses rich soil like compost or vermicompost in the mix the plants will thrive for some time. Overcrowding over a long period of time will deplete the soil and reduce productivity. The more plants one plants into a container the sooner it will need renovation and/or soil improvement. Another consideration is that if you only have a few containers and multiple plants that you must put more per pot. I suggest buying more pots and putting fewer plants per pot. Each container won’t yield as much initially but in a year or so you’ll have more containers filled with plants and more production.
Comment by admin — April 10, 2010 @ 5:02 pm